It all started in mid August when Mark told me there was a tech convention in Amsterdam that he may go to. Did I want to go? Let-me-think-about-that-yes-and-for-how-long-can-we-stay?
So began my hours of research. We hadn't been to Europe since 2002. The dollar is much weaker now and I was worried about what kind of lodging we could find. But first we had to decide where, exactly we wanted to go. The convention was in Amsterdam so that was a given. We had never been to Prague so that was a top choice. I knew I wanted to travel by train at least part of the trip so some other choices were Luxembourg, Belgium, France and Germany. Italy was of course to be on the itinerary. The winner, was Paris. We had both been but never together.
The trip was roughed out as 3 days Amsterdam, 3 days Paris, 7 days Rome. Seven days in Rome is a nice chunk so I asked Mark if he was interested in renting a motorcycle for a few days while we were there. Like offering crack to a junkie.
He found a place that was out of BMWs but they did have a Honda v-Storm for the time we needed. OK. As we got closer to departure, a Ducati became available. Yay!
As far as more planning, I wanted to just play the Italy time by ear. There were places I had in mind: To the north of Rome, Umbria and Tuscany. To the East, L'Aquila. To the South, Sperlonga, Gaeta and so on.
Next up was booking tickets. We have a lot of frequent flyer miles and with a little, OK, alot of gentle persuasion, we were able to book Business class tickets. Yay Yay!
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Packing was a week long ordeal. The weather reports kept changing in Rome: rainy and cold to warm and sunny so I kept amending my luggage. In the end, I should have packed empty suitcases. That would've been a no-brainer if the dollar was stronger but I didn't want to spend $ on basics I have at home. In the end, we ended up with three rollers and we shipped out motorcycle gear fed-ex.
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The flight to Amsterdam stopped in Atlanta and both legs were pleasant. I watched "La Vie en Rose" and "X-Men, Origins" between glasses of wine and ice cream sundaes. Mark slept.
We arrived on a Sunday around 8:30 and I figured by the time we collect our bag and take the train to Central Station, it would be close to 11. Gosh-darn Dutch efficiency, we were in town by 9:30 and had to walk around in a daze for a few hours till the apartment was ready.
The apartment we booked was not available when I started looking but everyday, I would check the calendar and low and behold, it opened up for the time we needed it. Persistence pays off.
Super cute.
We ended up at a bakery called Bertram brood. We would eat there each morning, well at least each day. Then we went to a cafe called De blaffende vis. We swung back around and we're told 1 more hour. Alrighty then, next cafe, t'Smalle:
What a great cafe. Actually, a brown cafe though there is no smoking allowed anymore. Only in "coffee shops".
By this time we were a little loopy even after 3 cappuccinos each.
After checking in, we hopped on the bikes that came with the place and headed out to the RAI convention center. It was already past two by the time we left. For about 3 hours, we walked around. By this time, I was thirsty, hungry, jet-lagged and bored. We forgot to take Euros with us so we couldn't buy anything. Luckily, some of the big vendors had their own cafes set up and we were able to procure more caffeine and some cheese/sausage.
Mark had planned to meet up with an associate from Seattle and the three of us had pizza at a restaurant close by. This was our 1st dinner. I have come to the conclusion that 1st and 2nd breakfast, lunches and dinners are necessary on vacation.
After a tidying up at the apartment, we hopped back on the bikes and rode around until we stumbled upon something that struck our fancy. We ended up at a place called Envy. Very cool place. Lots of small plates and quite hip.
I have to add this biking around Amsterdam is fantastic. The city becomes much smaller on 2 wheels. I can't count how many times we would pass by our destination because we were just cruising.
We ended up going to bed after 3 and Mark had a 10am meeting planned back at the convention. Well the next think we knew, it was 2:30 in the afternoon. We had slept through the gamut of alarms. woops
After a quick brea-I mean lunch, Mark was off. I decided to explore on my own. I thought I might go shopping but I ended up serpentining my way through canal after canal. It was great.
and rebels.
I had read about a place in the Jordaan that had the best pizza in Amsterdam. Since it was in our hood, I had to go.
La Perla It was a nice pie. And yes, I ate the whole thing myself (my 2nd lunch). Mark and I met up a little later and planned to meet Nils for dinner. Tapas Catala and Lucius.
We ended up at this bar each night in Amsterdam. Of course I can't remember the name but the bartender there was great. He was about to move to the Caribbean. What a change of scenery.
Happy biker
The view out our door.
After three days, Paris was next. High speed train=very cool.
Cushy seats. I slept almost the whole 4 hours; Too much partying in AMS!
Our Paris apartment:
It was located in the Montorgueil and despite the prostitutes (old, should be retired prostitutes),
I really liked the place. It was in a great location and I slept like a rock there.
Our first day and Paris, we just walked. And walked. And walked. So much to see, eat, drink. It was lovely.
The papparazzi
And a little bit to eat:
Ah Paree
And a little bit to eat:
Le Pain du Sucre
Mark ate all sorts of animal products. By choice.
The weather was a mix. Sunny, warm, drizzling, warm. It was never that cold despite the rain.
Each day, we just wandered. There were a few things we wanted to see: the museum of modern art, the science museum, but we really had no schedule and that was nice.
Food was my main barometer. We never made it to any chichi places, in fact we stuck to hole-in-the-wall bistros and bars.
After our walking marathon, Mark needed a massage. So while he was prone, I wandered alone.
I came across a photo shoot in the middle of the street:
I also came across a place that made me so so happy.
We sat just in time and wow what a great lunch!
Foie gras in Paris is just so right.
After lunch I walked from the 3eme arr to the 6eme to check out Le Bon Marche. I had stopped a shoe store but the ones I liked were Spanish.
On the way, I passed Christian Louboutin and it was filled with tourists from all over the world trying on $$$ shoes and boots. I did a quick in and out and continued on my way.
After about an hour, I found the store but I wasn't wowed. I did like the food shop very much though. It dawned on me looking at the many offerings that one could buy almost all of the packaged foods at home. It was a bit sad and a bit comforting. All I ended up buying was sea salt.
I met Mark at the Canal St. Denis. Beautiful:
The lighting was amazing.
Dinner was a huge plate of charcuterie and a bottle of wine.
We were tempted to rent Velib bikes our last night but Paris is not Amsterdam and we like our legs attached to our bodies.
The morning was spent on the rue montorgueil eating our last Paris goodies.
The view from our window.
Next on the agenda, Rome.
We had never flown easyJet but it was fine.
I don't know what it is about Italy but it is the place I could return to again and again, specifically Rome. The history, the food, the fashion, the people- all amazing.
Renting an apartment was the way to go.
One flight above Via del Babuino, it was noisy but great. We arrived on a Saturday just in time for la passagiata. The streets were jammed
One flight above Via del Babuino, it was noisy but great. We arrived on a Saturday just in time for la passagiata. The streets were jammed
with people and I couldn't wait to meld with humanity.
Ferraris
Citroens
We spent hours walking and shopping and just looking. This was a shoe store. High drama.
Mark was possessed by a teenage girl and became an insatiable shopper. From socks to glasses to jackets, he was a on-man credit card wrecking machine. I could not keep up.
I did manage to find a pair of boots. It was love at first sight.
For dinner our first night we returned to Enoteca Antica. A great wine bar full of tourists and locals alike. It was so good we returned for lunch and dinner the next day.
life-sized lego tables
Sunday morning, we picked up the Ducati and had a heck of a time maneuvering back into the city. So many one-way streets, pedestrian streets, it was stressful. For two days, we left it parked safe and snug between two planters.
Which is the hotter ride?
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